Vienna

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Before I took my publishing job, one that held its winter sales meeting in the first week or two of January, my husband and I often traveled to Europe around New Year’s. Most recently, we spent New Year’s Eve in Amsterdam and traveled to Vienna after that. It was then that Vienna was cemented as one of my favorite world cities, and there was a part of me that hoped, now that I no longer have a sales meeting, that we would spend New Year’s there this year. My husband’s work schedule combined with a deep freeze in Europe has prevented the trip for now, but I thought that I would do an ode to Vienna in my kitchen through the traditional Sachertorte.

Some background on Sachertorte and my childhood love of Vienna can be found in this post about our trip there. It’s an oldie, so please ignore the crazy photo sizes. What was I thinking?!

I am trying to take this week completely off of job hunting and the stress that comes with it, so I decided to spend yesterday cooking. In addition to the Sachertorte, I also made the fluffiest wheat rolls ever and some BBQ pulled chicken for sandwiches. Posts to come soon.

The Sachertorte was by far the most complicated baking venture I have ever undertaken alone, and while it turned out absolutely delicious, it is also a complete and utter mess. The recipe, which is that of Wolfgang Puck, is at the end of the post, and you can also find it by clicking here. I should introduce the photo of my Sachertorte with an apology to Wolfgang and all Austrians. . .

chocolate chips

The whole process started out smoothly enough as I got started making this dense, chocolate-rich torte. I had all of the ingredients in the below list except for those to make the filling. Instead of apricot preserves and brandy, I used raspberry preserves and Bonny Doon Pommeau apple brandy, a combination that was a leap but ended up being a delicious one.

egg yolks

I followed all of the instructions; I even got my egg whites into perfect, stiff peaks.

egg whites

melted chocolate

I guess my first mistake was using the wrong size and shape cake pan. Traditional Sachertorte is round, and I used a square, due to my limited baking supplies. For some reason, my cake didn’t quite fill the pan and ended up thin. Instead of slicing the cake into three equal layers, I sliced mine into two, one that looked like a layer of cake and one that crumbled into about 20 pieces. Sad smile

Despite my horror, I soldiered on and spread the raspberry filling on the first layer, then piece by piece added the top layer. The end result resembled a crumb cake more than a Sachertorte. I thought I could cover it up with the final touch, a chocolate glaze, but it was just way too bumpy. Alas, my Sachertorte is an eyesore, but an eyesore that is rich, decadent, chocolate-y and incredibly delicious, just like the real thing.

Sachertorte

I am bookmarking this recipe and buying a circular cake pan or two. I will make a Sachertorte to rival that of the Hotel Sacher or at least one that actually looks like it should!

What is your most recent kitchen disappointment?

Ingredients

Cake:
  • 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut into small pieces
  • 3 ounces butter
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 1 ounce sugar, plus 3 ounces
  • 5 egg whites
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/3 cup flour, sifted
Apricot Filling:
Glaze:
  • 6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut into small pieces
  • 1 ounce butter
  • 2 ounces heavy cream
  • Schlagobers, or whipped cream

Directions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter and flour a 9 by 2-inch cake pan.

In a bowl, combine the chocolate and butter and melt over a double boiler. Set aside to cool. In a mixer, using a wire whisk, whip the egg yolks with 1 ounce sugar until light and ribbony. Beat in the chocolate mixture.

In another bowl, beat the egg whites and salt until soft peaks. Slowly add the remaining 3 ounces of sugar and continue to beat until stiff peaks. Fold in the flour and then fold in 1/3 of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten it. Fold in the remaining egg whites, gently but thoroughly. Pour into prepared cake pan.

Bake for 40 minutes or until done. To check for doneness, insert a paring knife in center of cake. It should come out dry. Remove from the oven and cool on a rack.

To make the apricot filling: puree the apricot preserves. Stir in brandy.

Slice the cake into 3 equal layers. Spread half of the apricot filling on the bottom layer. Top with a second layer of cake. Spread the remaining apricot filling and top with the last layer of cake. Chill for at least 30 minutes.

To make the glaze: in a bowl, combine the chocolate and butter. Melt over a double-boiler. Bring the cream to a boil. Stir into the melted chocolate. Cool until it reaches glazing consistency. Spread over and around the cake. Chill for another 30 minutes before serving. Serve a slice with Schlagobers or whipped cream.

Tags: baking, chocolate, cooking, dessert, Food, home, recipe, Sachertorte, Vienna

While most people seem to look forward to summer to travel, we tend to be the exact opposite. I love to stick around New England to soak in the rare months of sunshine and warmth, hydrangeas, deep blue seas, fried clams, local beers, and long evenings.

Instead our travels tend to take place in winter; by keeping to this schedule we get to enjoy crowd-free holidays that cost much less than they would in summer. And Europe is simply magical in the winter. In the past 5 years, I have traveled from the West coast of Ireland on multiple family visits, to London, Brussels, and Amsterdam for work, to Amsterdam for New Years, to Vienna, Munich, Lake Lucerne and Zurich, to Monaco and Nice, to Prague, and to Barcelona. Inspired by Rick Steves’ European Christmas, on public television this morning, I thought I would share with you just why winter is my favorite time to visit Europe.

Many European countries really do it up for Christmas and New Years. In places like Vienna, decorations transform already gorgeous cityscapes into enchanting holiday villages. Outdoor markets and the prevalence of gluwein (yes, drinking wine while shopping!) and street food like sausages, chestnuts, and pretzels, make wandering around in the cold more pleasant.

The Prater, Vienna Vienna Christmas

In colder parts of Europe like Vienna and Prague, a quiet blanket of snow only adds to the architectural and natural beauty, making everything seem just a little bit slower, the perfect pace for your vacation.

Prague

In the winter, all of the sights are still there! Museums and other attractions might have limited hours, but in general, places are open for business with a pleasant difference from summer, no crowds. Smile When planning a trip, you will. of course want to double check that places are open. I do know, for example, that some Champagne houses in Reims do not have winter tours.

Amsterdam

Weather in Western Europe can be downright gorgeous! If you are from a place like Boston where our winters tend to be quite brutal, going to places like Ireland and England can be a pleasant surprise. The below photo is me running on the beach in Galway, Ireland last JANUARY! Temperatures there can be in the 50’s or, as we have experience several times, even the low 60’s in February. It is nice to step off the plane and shed the New England layers!

Galway, Ireland

Roundstone

And again, in the winter, the natural beauty of places just shines, and you don’t have busloads of tourists elbowing you out of the way to enjoy it. Winter in Europe is a great time to blend in, to talk to people, and to get more of a handle on what everyday life is like which is my absolute favorite part of travel.

Galway, Ireland

And if you really can’t stand the cold, you can always head to the warmth. Barcelona in late November had us eating lunch on the beach, watching surfers and children swimming.

Barcelona

With warmer temperatures year round allowing fresh, mostly local, produce to be abundant and a welcome shift from root vegetables Winking smile

image

We are currently planning out our winter travels; who knows where they will bring us?!

What are your favorite parts of traveling?

Tags: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Galway, gluwein, holidays, Lucerne, Travel, Vienna, winter

My love of Vienna goes back 20 years before I ever stepped foot in the place, probably before I ever even knew where it was. At around 8 years old and a voracious reader, I discovered the book As the Waltz Was Ending by Emma Macalik Butterworth. In love with ballet, I read every word about this young ballerina growing up in Vienna during the Depression and World War II. It was through Emmy that I learned about the Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna Opera House) where Emmy was a young dancer, the majestic Ringstrasse, the big ferris wheel at the Prater, Vienna’s large amusement park, and the Hotel Sacher, where her favorite Viennese cake, Sachertorte was created. I also learned about the Gestapo, air raids, and what life was like when your whole world is falling apart. Her father lost his job, the family lost their home and loved ones to the war, and their Jewish friends disappeared. Over the course of my life, I have read that book at least twenty times, likely more than that, until I knew virtually every word, every street name. Despite the many horrors portrayed in the book, Emmy’s Vienna was a magical and beautiful place that I could not wait to visit for much of my life.

Fast forward two decades, planning a winter holiday with my husband, and he wants to go to Vienna!!! I can not even tell you how excited I was boarding a very early morning Sky Europe flight from Amsterdam to Vienna. Amsterdam had been mild for December/January, but we landed in Vienna to a fresh coating of snow. I would not have had it any other way. Retrieving our luggage and boarding the S-Bahn was so easy. It was a very quiet, clean train, and we were in Vienna in under half an hour. The hotel that I booked via hotels.com was Hotel Capri, about a 15 minute walk from the station. My husband speaks fluent German, so checking in was a breeze (English was widely spoken as well), and our room was lovely, clean, and had a balcony looking out on to the main street.

We took off instantly to explore Vienna, and in my mind, Emmy’s Vienna. Everywhere I turned, there was a street, a café, something that reminded me of my favorite childhood book. It was like I had stepped into someone else’s world, and it was so amazing.

Our hotel was very close to the subway which ran perfectly on time and was uber clean. When we stepped out of the subway in the city center, there was St. Stephen’s Cathedral (Stefansdom), the gothic, foreboding, and beautiful structure whose bells ring clear throughout the city. This building in various forms has been there since 1147 AD, was partially destroyed by Allied bombing in WWII, and stands tall today as a symbol of the pride and stature of the Viennese people. It is surrounded by cosmopolitan shopping areas, which I enjoyed thoroughly. The Viennese are gorgeous, fashionable, and friendly people, and I felt extremely welcome in their city. In my book, Emmy received her confirmation at Stefansdom, and I was really excited to finally bring to life the images I had in my mind all those years.

Holiday decorations

Holiday decorations

 

One of the things that I had to do in Emmy’s Vienna was to drink coffee and eat pastries. The Viennese coffee, mélange is coffee with steamed milk, and it is delicious. I felt like a real Viennese lady from days long ago sipping mélange and eating apple pastries. But what really made my holiday (my year??) was going to the famous Hotel Sacher for sachertorte, coffee, and port.
I wish I was a food blogger at this point in my life because I would have taken a million photos inside the Hotel Sacher. Its majestic warmth and style gave way to a relaxing afternoon over this dense chocolate cake with apricot jam filling and a light chocolate frosting. The port was leggy and slightly syrupy and went perfectly with a rich Viennese coffee and some German newspapers which I actually was able to read a bit before our Austrian/German/Swiss holiday was done.

Hofburg Palace at night

Hofburg Palace at night

Another culinary delight was Naschmarkt, Vienna’s 1.5 km outdoor market. Here you can buy and sample anything from bread to cheese to sushi to nuts and candy. Literally an entire kilometer and a half of food and drink. It was cold outside, but the closeness of the market stalks kept us warm. Here I tried sweet red peppers stuffed with fresh goat’s cheese. The textures worked together perfectly, the slight crunch of the partially cooked pepper with the cold creaminess of the goat cheese. This snack was rich enough to fill me up for quite awhile. Nashmarkt is a place that I could, and did, spend hours just marveling at the types and beauty of the food. No foodie visit to Vienna is complete without a stop here!

Even when traveling, we like to eat some of our meals in, and Vienna was no exception. It was quite funny because while our hotel room did not have a fridge, we did have a balcony, and it was quite cold outside! We shopped at the Spar right down the street from the hotel and bought a couple of types of cheese, some fruit, yogurt, Viennese sausage, and of course, some Franziskaner beer from nearby Germany. With our little makeshift “fridge” we were able to eat healthy inexpensive breakfasts and have light dinners and snacks back at our room. There really is nothing like opening your balcony door and grabbing a cold one!

The Prater

The Prater

Stefansdom

Stefansdom

 

My final Vienna favorite, and one that I discovered through research and not through Emmy, was Austrian wine taverns. Heurigen, as they are called, dot the Austrian countryside, serving local wine, bits of food, and lively singing. We were staying in the city so we visited one of the city taverns, Esterházykeller on Esterhazygasse, incidentially, one of the streets that Emmy lived on as a child. Esterházykeller has been operating since 1683 and has quite the history and a very old, otherworldly feeling. In order to reach this tavern, you descend several flights of stony stairs to a cave-like tavern. The walls are stone, and the benches are old wood, the rooms lit by very dim lighting. We did not eat here, but each had Welschriesling, a light and refreshing white that almost had the effervescence of a vinho verde. Not knowing about Austrian wine, I was pleasantly surprised at its taste, and really enjoyed the medieval-feeling surroundings of the heuriger.

Esterhazykeller

On our walk back to the hotel on our last night after one last lap around the city, we stopped at one of the many Glüwein stands on the streets. Glüwein is a hot, mulled red wine that is popular in many European countries around the winter holidays. Its warm spiciness heated us up as we walked along the DanubeCanal , looking at the holiday lights, and never wanting to leave Vienna.

This trip also included several days in Amsterdam (a trip I have made many times), Munich, and Lake Lucerne, Switzerland. I am planning upcoming posts on those stops as well as on our visit to Dachau, which will be a heavy post, but one I feel the need to share.

I am hoping to spend some more time in Austria in the very near future, perhaps a summer trip that includes Salzburg and the Vienna Woods. I would recommend visiting in the winter though, the magic of the holidays just seems to truly bring out the spirit of the city!

This post is dedicated to the memory of Emma Macalik Butteroworth as a thank you for sharing her story with little girls all over the world.

Tags: Food, foodie, Gourmet food, riesling, Travel, Vienna, vineyard, wine

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