Italy

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When planning our trip to Italy, there was little I wanted to do, other than spend time playing with our nephews and tasting Italian wine, not at the same time, of course (except for those times we had delicious, homemade wine with lunch, because when in Italy. . .) We weren’t sure what day trips we wanted to do from their home near Ascoli Piceno, and we talked about visiting a variety of areas, including Perugia and Abruzzo. When we realized that Abruzzo was much closer and would get us home in time for after-school snacks and fun with the kids, I instantly thought of the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from Masciarelli, a wine that we first discovered at a cocktail class at The Urban Grape.

I was having a hard time making a tasting appointment with the time difference and all, but after a quick email to The Urban Grape, was on my way to being set up for a tasting and tour at Masciarelli’s winery and their hotel, Castello di Semivicoli.

After a couple of hours of driving through the Italian countryside up and down many hills, we found Castello di Semivicoli and escaped the rain inside its toasty, historic walls.

We were greeted warmly and shown around the olive oil making room, the old barrel room, and the kitchen, which the Masciarelli family left as it was found when they bought the property. It’s perfectly preserved and demonstrates what an Italian kitchen would have looked like in the past, an open fire always on for cooking and warming the home. Now, hotel guests eat breakfast in this area,

Castello di Semivicoli

It was also where we enjoyed the perfect cappuccinos while waiting for our tasting. With rain pelting the windows, this room and the coffee, not to mention the hospitality, were beyond warm and welcoming.

perfect cappuccino

Castello di Semivicoli

One of the most fun parts of our tour was checking out the hotel’s master suite, the penthouse of the building with 360 degree views to the surrounding hills of Abruzzo. The room featured a huge soaking tub, dining table, and beautiful, minimalist design. Oh and 360 degree views of the Abruzzo countryside.

Abruzzo Hotel

Master Suite - Castello di Semivicoli

Master Suite - Castello di Semivicoli

After our tour, we got down to the business of tasting beautiful, delicious, inspired wines from Masciarelli and their other label, Valori, along with fresh olive oil, cheese, and meat. Pure heaven.

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Masciarelli wine tasting

In total, we tasted 20 wines, and I found myself making tons of notes and wishing I had a bigger suitcase and the ability to transport large quantities of wine back to the US. I won’t get into my tasting notes for every single one of the wines, but if you have questions, do feel free to email me.

Masciarelli wine tasting

The following were my favorites:

  • Classic Line – Trebbiano d’Abruzzo – the first wine we ever tried from Masciarelli is still a favorite. I am in love with the fruit-forward peach flavors as well as the crisp acidity. This wine is an amazing value and is usually available at The Urban Grape.
  • Villa Gemma Bianco – this blend of 80% Trebbiano d ‘Abruzzo ,15% Cococciola, and 5% Chardonnay was fun, not only because I never tried Cococciola before, but because this wine is incredible. The mouthfeel is creamy, and the wine itself is incredibly fragrant, offering floral notes along with apple and vanilla. Simply gorgeous.
  • Marina Cvetic Chardonnay – Barrel aged in new French oak, this Chardonnay is NOT oaky. The oak imparts flavors of toasted nuts and vanilla, but floral notes and nice acid balances it all out.  (Marina Cvetic is the wife of the late founder of Masciarelli, Gianni Masciarelli, and is today the main representative of the winery.
  • Valori Cerasuolo 2011 – Cerasuolo means “cherry red” in Italian, and this lightly-colored wine definitely packs a cherry punch on the palate. This wine is perfect for summer but could also serve as a nice wintry rosé; it has the body to stand up to the season.
  • Classic Line – Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – again, you can not go wrong with the quality for price point. This deep red wine exhibits lots of dark berry flavors, a nice kick of pepper, and is luscious and smooth with a lovely long finish.
  • Valori Vigna Sant’Angelo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – this wine has a bunch of stars next to it on my tasting sheet, and for good reason. It’s rich, velvety, smooth, with very noticeable flavors of stewed blackberries and cherries. It’s simply stunning.

Masciarelli wine tasting

We spent a good deal of time tasting and talking, and then our gracious host, Giulia, braved the rain to take us about eight kilometers down the road to tour the place where the magic happens, the Masciarelli winery.

Masciarelli winery

Surrounded by more beautiful hills and valleys, Masciarelli’s winery is a sight to be seen. The winemaking, storing, and ageing processes are all alive and well, and it was interesting to see exactly the conditions each of the wines is made in.

Masciarelli winery

For example, this room is kept at a certain humidity level by the limestone in the cages behind the barrel. The mountain behind the wall is also limestone, allowing the room to have naturally regulated temperature and humidity for optimum storage.

barrel room

Tasting wine at a winery in Italy was such a treat, and it was fun to compare and contrast with other wines we tried in the region. Abruzzo and Marche, though lesser known than places like Tuscany, are making some fabulous wines at extremely good values. Next time you are looking for a bottle, grab a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

Tags: Abruzzo, Italy, Masciarelli, wine, wine tasting

My blog is back. . . I think! It has been quite the frustrating week, with the blog and my business website being hacked while I was in Rome. There was little we could do from there; I wasn’t about to spend the three days we had in Rome on fishing out bad blog code. Instead we immensely enjoyed Italy and Ireland, and my superhero husband took care of the blog when we returned.

I have at least 10 blog posts whirling in my head, but I thought I would start with a favorite, the place we stayed for the majority of our time in Italy.

As you already likely know, my husband is from Galway, Ireland. Years ago, while in university, one of his older brothers met a beautiful Italian student who was studying in Galway. Through the years they married, moved to Boston, had a precious little boy, and then moved back to Italy and the village where my now sister-in-law grew up. They have since added another adorable boy, and while it’s difficult for us to live so far away from them, when we do get to visit the paradise they live in, there’s nothing better.

Marche

Their village is located in Marche on the Adriatic coast of Italy a little over two hours from Rome. We arrived at night, drove through mountainous roads and went to sleep almost instantly, waking up to these views, right out their back door.

Marche

My sister-in-law’s mother, uncle, and aunt also live on the property, which is located at the top of a hill and features terraced gardens that, during growing season, are full of vegetables and fruit.

Marche

Even at the end of November, there were almonds, olives, pears, lemons, and limes.

almonds

olives

Just up the hill from the house is a small piazza, with a towering church (where my BIL and SIL got married) as its focal point.

Marche

Marche

Almost everything in the square prompted me to take photos. I felt like every door, railing, and tile was a piece of art; that’s Italy for you.

Marche

Colli del Tronto

While we enjoyed lots of great food while in Rome, the very best food we had in Italy was at home. My sister-in-law and her mother cooked for us several times a day, and everything was delicious perfection. Chicken cutlets, simple fried potatoes, bread with newly pressed, fruity olive oil, and pasta were devoured, each bite full of flavor, quality, and love. We sipped on homemade limoncello cream after dinner, ate freshly baked berry crostata with our afternoon coffee, and played with our nephews in between to burn a little of it off.

  Just about everything we ate was homemade or grown, and we loved it all, especially local specialties like the frito misto all’ Ascolana. Fried local olives stuffed with meat and seasoned with lemon juice are some of the best bites I have eaten, and little clouds of custard added a sweet contrast to the rest of the meal.

olives alla ascolana

We were treated to homemade vin cotto, boiled wine, that is stored right at home in a barrel that contains wine from 1912. Each year they top it up with new wine; while enjoying a sip of this strong, slightly sweet wine and a bite of wine-soaked biscotti, we were drinking 100 years of family history.

vin cotto

Our warm and loving hosts provided the perfect backdrop for exploring Marche and Abruzzo; they certainly made us feel like we have a home in Italy, and we’re already planning our next visit.

Tags: family, Food, Italy, Marche, Travel, wine

I am back from California, wishing I was still there but full of great memories and waiting on a shipment of fantastic wine to help us extend our vacation. I have more photos on my laptop and posts brewing in my head about Sonoma and Napa than I can even put into words right now, so hopefully you won’t mind seeing lots of vineyard shots over the coming weeks. It was heaven.

Signorello Vineyards

We really squeezed out every last second of our trip; when our friend Chef Robin White, a friend of Under the Tuscan Sun’s Frances Mayes, invited us to participate live in a tweet-up celebrating Mayes’ new book The Tuscan Sun Cookbook, we had to zip over to Napa Valley one last time to participate, even if it meant a little bit of anxiety on my part about getting to the airport on time. Turns out our flight was delayed five hours anyway, so I am glad we didn’t spend any more time in the airport than we had to.

Robin is the queen of virtual dinners, hosting all sorts of fun events that bring people together from all over to feast on food and wine and share the experience via Twitter. She wowed us with a Venge Wine Dinner at her home, and we have had fun participating in her Soup Week events.

The live portion of this tweet-up was hosted by Signorello Vineyards on the Silverado Trail in Napa Valley. Despite the soaking rain, the drive was beautiful, lush, green, and scenic.

Signorello Vineyards

The tweet-up was attended virtually by people from all over the world using the hashtag #TuscanSunChat. I was lucky enough to be with Robin, one of the hosts, and a bunch of wine country locals.

Signorello Vineyards

Signorello’s chef kept a constant stream of hot pizzas coming to the table that they had set up for us. He was cooking up the pizzas from The Tuscan Sun Cookbook  outside in the rain, and they were delicious. This one had chili oil and agave nectar on it, giving it a kick of spice and a hint of sweet. With the chewy crust and flavorful toppings, it was pretty spectacular.

pizza

We also had this margarita pizza. Everything on it was so fresh. The pizza made excellent fuel for all of our tweets!

pizza

And of course there was wine. Signorello poured their Seta, a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, which was crisp, acidic, and full of lemony flavor, a bright contrast to the grey day outside.

Signorello wine

We followed that with Signorello’s Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Signorello wine

My husband has attended a few tweet-ups with me, mostly in California, and I think he finds them a little funny. Most of the guests were communicating via Twitter more than we were talking. I , like many people, am a huge fan of Under the Tuscan Sun, so I found it a lot of fun to be tweeting with Frances Mayes and her husband. I am looking forward to picking up a copy of the book to bring a little bit of Tuscany to Boston!

Tags: California, Food, Italy, Napa, pizza, Travel, wine

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