winery tour

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Minutes from the Cross Sound Ferry terminal in Orient Point, Long Island sits one of the North Fork’s newest wineries, and it is an absolute gem. Kontokosta Winery was our first stop after our journey across the Long Island Sound. When we arrived, a blanket of gray was draped over the North Fork, but that just added a little something special to the experience as we pulled up to the rustic winery and tasting room.

Kontokosta Winery North Fork

Kontokosta vineyards

Kontokosta vineyards

We thought the vineyards and bran-like wooden exterior of Kontokosta were beautiful, and we did not at all expect what the interior would bring. Both of our mouths dropped open as we saw the lofty, modern, and chic interior of the tasting room. It offers a contrast from the outside for sure, but it is most beautiful in a different way. I can easily say that Kontokosta, owned by brothers Michael and Constantine Kontokosta,  has one of the prettiest tasting rooms I have ever been to, and I have seen my fair share of tasting rooms in this life.  It is also one of the most green. From their sustainable farming practices to reclaimed building materials to wind power, everything about this winery is geared toward being a steward of the environment. As such, it will be one of the few LEED gold-certified wineries in North America.

Kontokosta Winery tasting room

 

Kontokosta Winery, North Fork

 

After a quick view of the tasting room, we met Polly Brown, the General Manager of the winery and all around interesting, kind, and wonderful person. We spent a couple of hours tasting and touring with Polly, and we both could have spent the rest of the day there.

Kontokosta Winery tasting room

As Polly shared with us the history of the winery and information on the building, we got down to tasting wine. Almost all of Kontokosta’s fruit is grown on the estate, with the exception of their Orient Chardonnay.

wine tasting on Long Island

I was talking and listening and enjoying our conversation so much that I didn’t want to look at my phone to take notes. However, these wines are just unforgettable. There was not one that was not beautiful, elegant, and expressing the unique terroir of the North Fork. The label on Kontokosta’s bottles says it all.

Kontokosta wine

wine tasting list

We tasted through the above list, and we came out with quite a few favorites.

wine tasting

Kontokosta Anemometer is a white table wine, a nod to the wind instrument  on the property. This wine is for everyday drinking with friends, super refreshing and summery, with citrus notes and nice acidity, this wine would pair perfectly with seafood and produce from the seas and land around the winery.

Long Island Viognier

You know I love my Viognier, and I was incredibly excited when it was time to taste this wine. This Viognier is lighter than some of the California and Virginia Viogniers I have enjoyed, but it is lovely nonetheless. It has those classic apricot/peach notes only with a much lighter, crisper texture than Viognier tends to have. This would be a perfect Viognier on a really warm day because it is still very refreshing.

We expected to enjoy the white wines, but the reds were what got us really hooked. I always think that cooler climates result in not-so-great red wine, but this is simply not the case with the North Fork. Cabernet Franc, one of my favorite grapes, grows unbelievably well on Long Island, and Kontokosta brings it to the bottle in an exceptional way. That spice that is so characteristic of Cabernet Franc gets you right away. I love spice in my food, and I love it in my wine. It complements dark fruit and earth in this wine, and it is simply delicious.

In addition to the Cabernet Franc, we really enjoyed the Blum Merlot, which is named after Ray Blum, who planted the vineyards and has since passed away. This wine was silky smooth with notes of cocoa and spice and luscious fruit, everything that is right with a good Merlot.

The Cabernet Sauvignon on the North Fork surprised and delighted us in general. It’s softer and easier than its often tannic California cousin, and it’s a much easier drinking wine which would go with a wider range of foods.

Kontokosta Cabernet Franc

After our tasting, we made our selections for wine to bring home, and while Polly got that together, we discovered another feature of Kontokosta not to be missed, their sprawling lawn that leads down to the sea.

Kontokosta Winery

Even on a cloudy day with a bit of drizzle, the scenery was breathtaking.

Adirondack chairs

Long Island Sound

There is no doubt that we need to return in the summer to experience this beautiful spot on a sunny day.

Long Island Sound

The final treat of our visit to Kontokosta was going downstairs to see where the wine is made and stored. We met Ron, who is, as Polly described, a wizard, working in the tank room. Ron made some of the beautiful furniture in the winery, assists with the winemaking, and is just an all around delight. We actually ran into him doing some work the next day at the Harbor Front Inn, a property owned by the Kontokostas and where we spent our night in Greenport. He remembered us and gave us a warm welcome once again.

winemaking

While at the winery, Ron let us taste some wine that was hanging out in tanks, waiting to go into barrels. The wine was unfinished, but as always with tasting before wine is bottled, it is so fun to se where it starts and how it changes along the way. The Cab Franc we tasted was delicious, yet lacked some of the roundness and richness that the barrel will bring to it.

tasting from the tank

tasting from the tank

It doesn’t get any better than touring and tasting with people who know a winery so well and obviously love it. Our afternoon at Kontokosta was an experience we will certainly never forget; we have several bottles of their wine to enjoy at home as we continue to reflect on our visit and start to plan a new one!

Many thanks to Polly and Ron and the whole Kontokosta team for hosting us!

Tags: Long Island, North Fork, Tasting Room, tasting room series, Travel, wine, wine country, wine of the week, wine tasting, wine travel, Wine Wednesday, winery tour

vineyard views

When it comes to wine country travel, we always really seem to hit the jackpot. We have visited so many incredible wineries, tasted great wines, done wine and food pairings, and enjoyed beautiful scenery. What has always made our wine country trips special, whether in Italy, or California, or even wine tasting in Massachusetts, the people we meet and end up staying in touch with are the real reason wine countries around the world draw us in.

Our visit to Bedell Cellars on the North Fork of Long Island was no different. Our guide and friend for the afternoon, Zack, was awesome from start until finish. In fact, we loved the experience so much that we ended up making our ferry reservation two hours later so we didn’t have to rush from the tasting room.

We arrived at Bedell Cellars on a most gorgeous late April afternoon. It definitely got me thinking about living on the North Fork. Skies and endless vineyards and blue seas. . . heaven. Once inside the tasting room, we were whisked up into the loft to a private seating area and started off with glasses of Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine and this view while we learned about the origins of the winery. Currently owned by Michael Lynne (executive producer of Lord of the Rings, in addition to many others), the winery has been in existence for 30 years and is one of the premier winemaking facilities on Long Island. It wasn’t always that way. Making wine was a hobby for Kip Bedell, the founding winemaker and namesake. He started out as  a basement winemaker, and his talent and word about his wines quickly grew. For the full story on Kip Bedell, Michael Lynne, and the rest of the team, please visit the Bedell website.

Bedell Tasting Room

Bedell VineyardOnce we learned a bit of history on Bedell, including the fact that, like many of the vineyards on the North Fork,Bedell was at one point a potato farm, we headed out into the bright sunshine to walk the land ourselves, stopping first to take a peek into the barrel room. There is no greater smell than a winery barrel room, if you ask me!

Bedell CellarsOn our walk outside, we were right in the trail of a bride and groom and Bedell’s event planner, going over the site for their wedding ceremony on property.  I want to get married again so I can have a North Fork wedding!

Bedell winery

Bedell Cellars

Bedell Tasting Room

The property is truly beautiful, and despite being conveniently on a main road, it feels completely country. We stood in a plot of Albariño and Chardonnay grapes and talked about the wine growing process and the unique terroir of the North Fork.

vineyard photo

The vines weren’t quite at bud break yet, but they were close. Wine growing in the North Fork is affected by many factors, and while there is a North Fork style and characteristics, things like soil can vary from vineyard to vineyard. Many of Bedell’s vines are nearing 30 years old, being part of the original winemaking, and their fruit is, as a result, more concentrated and full of flavor.

After wandering the vineyard, we went back inside to see where the wine is made, bottled, and stored. We also got a little more in-dept information on the soil of the Bedell vineyards. As you can see below, the roots of the vines stretch through many layers. Stones and sand make for excellent drainage, helping vines to avoid rotting roots from too much water.

North Fork soil

Once we were walked through the winemaking process, right up to labeling and boxing, we returned to our seats for wine and cheese. The team at Bedell took such great care of us, and they wowed us with each pour of wine.

wine and cheese

As always there were some standouts. On the white wine side, I loved the 2012 Gallery, an estate blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier. This wine was super fun and fragrant, full of texture due to the Viognier, and making our mouths happy with notes of pineapple, minerals, and lemon. In addition to wine, Bedell exhibits a love for art, hence the wine names and original pieces all over the tasting room. I have already blogged about the Bedell Viognier in my Wine of the Week post last week, and I also really loved the Bedell Taste Rosé, which wasn’t originally part of the tasting we were doing. Of course I asked for it. I loved the label of this wine, which isn’t a photo of Marilyn Monroe, but rather a bunch of photos blended together. This Rosé, a blend of Merlot (the North Fork’s signature grape), Cab Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah, is crisp and summery, given a little bit of spice from that Cab Franc and lots of berry notes from the Merlot. This wine would be incredible with barbecued anything, fruit salads, green salads, and seafood.

Bedell RoseI really loved the North Fork reds we tried, especially the Cabernet Francs, which I might say is my favorite red grape. Merlot once again shows all of its good characteristics, and the Bedell 2012 Merlot is fruity and floral at the same time, with some herbal notes mixed in for good measure. I promise you, even if you don’t think you like Merlot, you will like the Merlot grown on the North Fork. The 2012 Black Label Cab Franc was one of my favorite wines of the whole trip, with its spice and velvety fruit. There’s a bottle in our wine fridge just waiting for a chilly patio night.

Our time at Bedell Cellars was simply perfection, the wines, the scenery, the cheese pairing, and the people. Bedell has some great seating areas, including one by a fireplace, and I would imagine it would be the perfect place for wine tasting year-round. Many thanks to Bedell for hosting us for our wine tour and tasting.

Tags: Long Island, Long Island wine, North Fork, tasting room series, Travel, travel blog, Travel Tuesday, wine, wine travel, winery tour

On our past few visits to Sonoma (here, here, here, and here) we always ran out of time to visit one of the wineries that I wanted to visit most, Michel-Schlumberger. When planning last week’s trip, we made a point of making Michel-Schlumberger first, and thanks to the magic of Twitter, we were on an 11:00 tour of the winery with VP of Marketing and Direct to Consumer Sales, Jim Morris.

We started out in the winery’s courtyard, a beautiful open space built in the style of an old California Mission house.

Michel Schlumberger Michel Schlumberger Winery

In addition to a frog pond, the courtyard also hosts tables that contain information on the magnificent ecosystem that Michel-Schlumberger has developed and maintained. The winery is organically farmed, an eco-friendly practice which lends itself to some problems with some very interesting natural solutions. For example, to curb the issue of vineyard pests, they make the property a homey place for birds of prey by placing simple perches and birdhouses throughout the vineyards.

Michel Schlumberger courtyard Michel Schlumberger

They also wait to drain this pond and fill it with clean water until the pollywogs like the little guy on the right grow up and move out. 😉

Michel Schlumberger courtyard

The grounds are host to organic gardens, bee hives, a chicken coop that is home to some dwindling native chicken species, lawn-mowing sheep :), and an olive grove that is home to bad-insect-eating ladybugs. All of these living components serve some purpose in helping Michel-Schlumberger sustainably grow organic grapes that produce stellar wines. It also makes for an incredibly special tour experience.

image image

Michel Schlumberger bee hives Michel Schlumberger olive trees

Michel-Schlumberger’s vines grow along the hillsides of the Dry Creek Valley, where the soils, rainfall, fog, and temperatures throughout the year make up the unique terroir of the region. The vines here struggle, creating low yields of small fruit with concentrated but elegant flavors.

Michel Schlumberger vineyards

Michel Schlumberger vineyards

The views from Michel-Schlumberger’s vineyards are some of the best in Sonoma. Every which way you look, there’s lots of green, brown, and blue. And the smell of the dry earth and all of the vines and nature is pretty intoxicating. I’ll let you in on the fact that I love the way farm animals smell. My husband, who grew up tending sheep, thinks I am insane, but I love to breathe it in!

Dry Creek Valley

Our walk up the hill and through the winery certainly worked up a thirst, and there was no better way to quench it than with a tasting of Michel-Schlumberger wine. We arrived back in the courtyard to a beautifully set table and got down to the wine, starting with their 2009 La Bise Pinot Blanc.

wine tasting at Michel Schlumberger MicheL Schlumberger tasting menu

This is definitely one of my new favorite white wines and was absolutely perfect for the day we were having, strong sun with a nice cool breeze. This wine is really refreshing with a nice acidity and truly is perfect on its own but could be really great with food, especially one of my spicy coconut curries 🙂

Michel Schlumberger Pinot Blanc Michel Schlumberger

While all of the wines were really delicious, another one of the standouts for me was the 2006 Le Sage Merlot which offered definite flavors of fresh blueberries. And while I came to the Dry Creek Valley in search of Zinfandel, it was Syrah that truly captured my heart this time around. I love the dark fruits, spice, and hint of oak that were abundant in the 2006 La Source Syrah.

We ended up joining the winery’s Wine Bench club, and I am already looking forward to receiving their wines in the fall.

The time we spent at Michel-Schlumberger was full of great information, beauty, many laughs, and one of a kind wines and resulted in a completely new appreciation for sustainable winemaking and the committed people behind it. If you are planning on visiting Sonoma, don’t wait as long as I did to make an appointment for a tour of Michel-Schlumberger.

And if you live in the US, make sure to enter my Harvard Sweet Boutique giveaway!

Tags: Dry Creek Valley, Healdsburg, Sonoma, Tasting Room, travel. Sonoma County, wine, wine tasting, winemaking, winery, winery tour

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