wild atlantic way

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The months leading up to our baby’s first flight were filled with anxiety for me. As someone who tries to avoid ruffling any feathers, I was super nervous that we would annoy our fellow passengers with crying and other baby shenanigans. Our flight ended up being delayed four hours due to November snow, and while there was plenty of crying (including on my part when deplaning after two hours on the plane while it was de-iced) overall it went pretty well. Other passengers and the Norwegian Air flight crew were super understanding, and the baby slept for several hours, which gave us a little break. 

Our first trip to Ireland was of course very special; baby got to see where his dad grew up and where part of his family comes from. While we often do day trips from Galway to Connemara, this time around we rented a house and stayed for a few days. 

Connemara National Park

But first, we made time for a little hike in Connemara National Park. Climbing the Diamond is a pretty tiring undertaking (with incredible views of Connemara and beyond) so this time around we just did the base hike while Myles hung out in the car with Granny. It was windy and cold, and he was asleep, so we decided it was best that way. 

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After our hike and a trip to the grocery store in Letterfrack, we found our cottage, which was just a few houses from Renvyle House, a beautiful hotel and resort. 

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Our cottage rental was gorgeous and fully equipped with everything that we needed. We got a fire going and relaxed before taking in the sunset on the West Coast of Ireland, something I try to do every day there is sun.

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Connemara sunsets go on forever, and this one was spectacular. You could hear nothing but wind and waves, and we were the only people for miles. This is a very special place. 

Connemara

Having Renvyle House so close gave us the opportunity to have dinner there, and our food, wine, and service was all fantastic. Their roaring fireplace is a must for cozying up on a trip to Connemara! 

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I love trying a few menu items, and I enjoyed a delicious salad with beetroot, pear, and pecans, along with a steaming bowl of local mussels. You have to eat seafood when in Connemara! These were so flavorful and aromatic, perfect with a bit of brown bread to soak up the sauce!

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After a super restful night in the country, we were greeted by a blustery but beautiful Connemara day, and we took a drive to a place that’s an important part of our story for a few reasons. Ballyconneely is a place my husband spent a ton of time at while growing up, and it’s also where I brought my father’s ashes and where we got engaged. You can’t help but feel connected to the sea and earth and sky here and to really exhale. 

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Myles loved the baby cows along the beach, and we were lucky enough to spot a few seals, which always has me squealing like a child!

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The wind was whipping out there, so we made our way to Clifden, where Myles’s papa is from, for a perfect pint of Guinness at EJ Kings.

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Since we loved our cottage so much, we then made our way back to have some snacks, including Connemara smoked salmon and some cheeses. We took a moonlit drive later on to drop my husband’s aunt back home, then watched the clouds go by over the cottage through it’s giant skylight. I love country nights. 

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We rarely go to Connemara without visiting Ballynahinch Castle, and we made time on the way back to Galway to stop for a hot whiskey and a walk around. 

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Ballynahinch is the place to stay for a special occasion, and we were lucky to spend one St. Patricks Eve there. The food, castle ambiance, views, are all amazing and create for an unforgettable getaway.

Our last stop on the way to Galway was the valley where my father-in-law grew up. While I know that Myles won’t remember this trip, it meant a lot for us to bring him along to the places that we love so much. 

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Traveling with a baby certainly isn’t the easiest, but we’re hoping he gets a bit of our wanderlust and craves learning about the world as much as we do.

Tags: Connemara, family travel, Ireland, wild atlantic way

Ireland is always one of my travel highlights for the year. If you missed my 2016 travel recap, you can read it here.

When we visit Ireland, it’s always to see family and friends and favorite places in Galway; it’s a city you just can’t miss, and surround Connemara and the Wild Atlantic Way are dear to our hearts for many reasons. We also usually try to take a side trip, either in Ireland or somewhere else in Europe. In the past, we’ve done Prague, Barcelona, Amsterdam, Brussels, and others, in addition to stays in Connemara and Sligo in Ireland. On our November trip to Galway, we headed north to Achill Island in County Mayo, and it was just the little getaway we needed.

Our home on Achill was the absolutely lovely Achill Island Hotel (Óstán Oileán Acla in Irish), situated in a place with 360 degree mountain and sea views. It was a simply stunning, quiet, peaceful location.

Achill Island Rooms were cozy and comfortable, country-style decoration with all of the modern conveniences you could want, including WiFi and a great big soaking tub, which I took advantage of after our drive from Galway through Connemara. 

Achill Island Hotel We visited Achill in November, which is sort of off-season, so one of the attractive features of the Achill Island Hotel was a restaurant on-property. It meant we didn’t have to search for what might be open when we arrived hungry in the evening!

seafood casserole

Not only was it convenient, but it turned out to be incredible. Compliments to the chef for some really delicious meals that utilized Irish ingredients like famed local seafood in my seafood medley dish. It was chock full of flavorful seafood atop mashed potatoes, maybe the best I have had.

Even in my stuffed state, I had to have an Irish coffee to finish the meal. It’s kind of an unwritten rule when we visit Ireland.

Irish Coffee

With full bellies, we decided to head out into the cool night for a walk along the main drag in Achill, which was quiet, with only a few people out and about. The most noise we heard was from sea birds in the sea next to the hotel, feeding at low tide. A few locals were putting Christmas lights on the stores, and it was just a very peaceful and good feeling all around. It also helped immensely to get some fresh air.

Before we retired to our rooms for a couple hours of chatting, we headed back to the hotel pub to try their local beer.

Achill Island Hotel

Brewed with seaweed, this Achill beer had a nice richness to it, and of course that hint of sea salt on the finish. It was really good, and it’s always fun to see what local products are being made around Ireland. Craft beer has really picked up, as has craft gin. 

Achill Irish Beer

After our cozy night in, we woke up to a stunning, calm day on Achill, with the below views out our bedroom window and the windows of the hotel’s breakfast room.

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Clew Bay

We stopped and admired the views for some time before checking out and taking off to explore Achill and more of the breathtaking Wild Atlantic Way for the day.

Achill Island is less than two hours from Galway and very near to Westport, another favorite town in the West of Ireland.  It will make you feel like you are a million miles from everything.

Tags: Achill Island, coastal living, County Mayo, food blogger, Ireland, Mayo, Travel, travel blog, wild atlantic way

Many people plan visits to Ireland and focus mainly on Dublin, Killarney, and the Ring of Kerry. Those places are beautiful and well worth a visit, but our Ireland travel recommendations always take you west and north where towns like Galway and Westport  and Sligo are waiting to greet you with live music, booming food and beverage scenes, art, and wild, rugged coastal scenery.

If you’re a fan of the outdoors, visiting Connemara, outside of Galway is a must. Hiking in the West of Ireland is my favorite way to get away, and the beaches are some of the most pristine you will ever see.

Just north of Connemara you’ll find the incredibly beautiful Achill Island, a place for hiking, taking in the Wild Atlantic Way, finding cozy pubs, and enjoying the peace and beauty of the West Coast of Ireland. 

Achill Island Mayo Ireland

On our most recent trip to Ireland, we spent two days on Achill Island. On our first, we arrived to darkening, stormy skies, which made for a dramatic scene as we drove around looking for a smidgen of sunset. The sunset on the West Coast of Ireland is also a must-catch every night you can.

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Since we were losing light quickly, we explored by car, stopping to take in photos and to turn our faces to the cool rain. Irish rain feels so good. It makes my skin feel so hydrated, and I just feel alive in general when I am out in it!

 

 

achill sound 

Once the sun went down, we retired to our hotel for an amazing dinner. I’ll cover that in a future post.

The following morning brought quite a different scene as the sun came out, blue skies greeted us, and a calm sea looked like glass that went on forever. When you get days like this in Ireland, you get outside!

wild atlantic way ireland

Up and over the narrow mountain road we went, marveling at the beauty of the coastline. No matter how many times I visit Ireland, I never get tired of it. Each day brings a new view and a new perspective that makes me fall  in love all over again.

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Achill Island views Achill Island Achill Island

Keem Beach Achill Island

From taking in the Achill Sound views from cliff tops to exploring Keem Beach on foot, we squeezed every ounce of beautiful weather out of the day, and silliness ensued as I tried (and failed) to get the perfect jump shot!

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Keem Beach is a quiet stunner with the softest white sand and gentle surf. Next time we’ll bring a picnic, a book, and a thermos of something hot to enjoy an afternoon out there snacking and snoozing. I’m dreaming of this day already. . .

famine village

 Achill Island Ireland

Our Achill Island wanders then took us to the abandoned famine village of Dooagh, perched high upon a hill. About 40 houses once stood here around 1838. The inhabitants left no written accounts behind, and archaeologists have been discovering clues into their lives and disappearance, with some news about the villages coming out just this month.  Accounts suggest that it was the famine that drove inhabitants from the settlement, either by death or to live elsewhere, as happened with millions of Irish people during the time.

Achill Island

 Achill Island

Achill Island is very quiet; dark starry nights are punctuated by curls of turf-fire smoke from chimneys and the sounds of traditional music escaping local pub doors. Other than that, you’ll hear the lapping of waves, a few cars, and not much else. For me, this is the perfect place to be closer to nature and away from all of the stresses of the modern world. If you’re planning a trip to Ireland, step off the beaten tourist track and consider some of my favorite, less-frequented places for a truly memorable vacation.

For even more Ireland travel blog posts:

Afternoon Tea at the Meyrick Hotel
Ashford Castle
Ballyconneely

Ballynahinch Castle

Belfast in Photos

The Burren and Kinvara – hiking in Ireland

Bushmill’s Distillery

Colorful Images from Ireland

Giant’s Causeway and North Antrim

Galway Saturday Market
Galway – Spirit One Spa and Sheridan’s Wine Bar
Hiking in Connemara

Hiking Errisbeg in Roundstone

Kinsale, Ireland’s Gourmet Capital

Kylemore Abbey

O’Grady’s Barna Pier

Photos of Galway

Sligo

Tags: Achill Island, blog, Ireland, Ireland blog posts, Mayo, Travel, travel blog, travel blogger, wild atlantic way

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