Connemara

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Ballyconneely

It’s a place in Ireland we visit on every single trip, the place we got engaged seven years ago, and one of my favorite spots in all of Connemara. Ballyconneely, just outside of Clifden, is one of the most beautiful and pristine beaches I have ever visited. The water, in places, is Caribbean-blue (but nowhere near as warm!), the sand, bleached-white in places and a golden yellow in others.

Ballyconneely Ireland

From every spot on Ballyconneely’s beaches, you can see green fields, the rocky 12 Pins or Bens, the mountains of Connemara, and endless sky.

Mannin Bay

When the sky is gray, as it often is in the West of Ireland, Mannin Bay and the surrounding landscape can match it; depending on your own mood, it can be soothing and serene or somber and a little bit too heavy. Being a lover of gray skies and rainy days, I am usually a big fan.

Ballyconneely

Ballyconneely goes back further than the seven years ago when we got engaged, even further back than the almost 10 years ago when my husband and I first visited there together. When my husband was a child, he and his family owned a caravan on the beach and spent weekends playing in the surf, wandering the surrounding hills to round up sheep, and falling asleep to the sounds of the waves lapping the shore. Does that not sound like a magical way to spend childhood summers?

Connemara

boat in Connemara

If you plan a trip to Ireland, I definitely recommend including Ballyconneely on your itinerary; it’s an easy day trip from Galway City and can be combined with a visit to Clifden, Kylemore Abbey, and Ballynahinch Castle. Many people are wooed away from the West by the metropolitan and better known sites of Dublin, but this is where the real Ireland shines through.

Tags: beaches, Connemara, Galway, Ireland, Travel, vacation

Where has the week gone?  I hope you all had a wonderful, long holiday weekend. I barely took any photos over the Christmas holiday, and I didn’t take any of food. It’s been nice to take a little step back from blogging as I figure out my new role at work, juggle side projects, and spend the holidays with family. Besides holiday eating, we’ve been ordering a lot of takeout and eating simple meals like salmon and Brussels sprouts, nothing too blog-able!

Luckily, I have a few Ireland and Italy posts left to share before I launch into cooking and actually writing about restaurants again! Our visit to Ireland happened to fall at the same time it did seven years ago when we got engaged. We decided to celebrate our engagement anniversary with a trip West to Connemara where it all happened. Since we wanted to spend time with family, we brought them along and made a few other stops along the way.

One of our stops was the beautiful Kylemore Abbey, a stunning castle that is currently home to a community of Benedictine nuns, a group that has lived there since 1920 when their Belgian abbey was destroyed in World War I. The abbey has an interesting history and plenty of legends that surround it, making it feel like a magical, mystical, and sacred space.

Kylemore Abbey

Connemara

Kylemore is a hauntingly beautiful part of Ireland filled with rugged mountains and lakes, rocky fields, and winding roads. The quiet is often unbelievable; there are times when all you can hear is the baaaaa of sheep in the distance. Driving on to the property is always one of my favorite parts of the visit, as is the cozy cafe that serves hearty, simple lunches and delectable sweets. My husbands aunts and uncle have worked at Kylemore for many years, so I’ve had the chance to visit on several occasions, sometimes eating in the cafe and other times getting a fun, behind-the-scenes look at the property and eating incredible sandwiches made by the sisters living there.

Kylemore Abbey

When we arrived at Kylemore this past trip, it was late November and so everything was decorated for Christmas. We all had the creamy vegetable soup and brown bread, and then my husband’s auntie spoiled us with a bunch of sweets including scones, apple cake with custard, and meringues.

scones

meringues

Then we took a little wander around the majestic property, starting with the castle.

Kylemore Abbey

The attention to detail inside is incredible, and it’s easy to imagine living in a time gone by in such ornate surroundings. It also made me excited for the return of Downton Abbey!

Kylemore Abbey

Next we made our way to the Gothic church, truly one of my favorite little buildings. We had talked about getting married here, but it didn’t end up working out. Luckily, we get to come back and visit. Inside the Gothic church, there is an intense feeling of peace and spiritual connectedness, something I have lately realized is missing from my life.

 

Kylemore Abbey Gothic Church

Kylemore Abbey Gothic Church

It’s really quite special, even if the rain-smudged camera lens kept me from taking great photos!

Kylemore Abbey Gothic Church

 

marble of Ireland

Columns of Irish marble are both decorative and musical; if you run your hand across them they make a lovely sound. The green marble represents Connemara, where Kylemore Abbey is located.

Kylemore gardens

Our final stop at the abbey was the Victorian Walled Garden which, in summer, is filled with plants and flowers.

Kylemore gardens

Even in the off-season though, the sisters living here keep the garden perfectly groomed and maintained. In addition to the garden, they also do some farming nearby.

Victorian walled garden at Kylemore Abbey

After saying our goodbyes to my sweet auntie-in-law, we visited another favorite place, Ballynahinch Castle, a family tradition for my husband and a new one for me.

Ballynahinch Castle

By the time we arrived at Ballynahinch, which is a castle hotel and restaurant, it was dark and cold so I could not take photos of the surrounding grounds which are breathtaking.

Ballynahinch Castle

The inside of Ballynahinch was exactly what the evening called for. It’s a well-known spot for fishermen and outdoors enthusiasts, and the pub welcomes everyone in from the cold with a roaring fire. Rainy, dark views from the restaurant part of Ballynahinch show just a peek at what diners on a fine evening might enjoy.

Ballynahinch Castle

wellies

We stuck to warm-up drinks, hot Port and for some of us, hot whiskeys, a mix of hot water, lemon with cloves, sugar, and Irish whiskey. This drink is a cure-all that will definitely make you feel a little warmer anytime and a little better if you have a cold.

hot whiskey

Ahh yes, relaxing with a hot whiskey by a fireplace in a castle in Ireland after a fun day of wandering the Connemara countryside; it’s a very good thing.

Ballynahinch Castle

We’re still enjoying Christmas through January 6, Three Kings Day, and are looking forward a quiet but festive New Year’s Eve at home. Are you still enjoying the holiday spirit?

Tags: Ballynahinch, Connemara, Food, Ireland, Kylemore, Travel, whiskey

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! We’ve got a gorgeous day on tap, and I am starting my birthday weekend. . . now. I am off to the JFK Presidential Library for a walk through and then for a walk along the waterfront in the sunshine. This day is a long time coming!

We still don’t have specific plans tonight, but I am sure there will be some sort of celebrating. To mark the occasion, give you all a laugh, and show you over a decade of trips to Ireland, I thought I would share a few photos. I kind of got scanner happy. . . so you may be seeing many more old photos in the future!

Here goes!

Galway

Summer 1999 in Galway with a former member of the Sawdoctors- I know you don’t see much of Ireland in this photo, but look at how ridiculous both my hair and skirt are!

Galway

March 2001, my apartment in Galway – I can’t believe I studied abroad 10 years ago! This was, I believe, the night before my 21st birthday. . . Winking smile

Aran Islands

April 2001 Inis Mor, the Aran Islands

Galway

Sometime in 2001 – The above is my apartment building. My bedroom was at the very top all the way to the left, and I loved it. Below is the view out of my bedroom window of the weekly farmers market.

image

Galway Bay sunset

Galway Bay sunsets

Galway Bay sunset

Clare Island

Clare Island, County Mayo

Clare Island

Clew Bay from Clare Island

Clare Island

Sheep grazing on Clare Island

Connemara

The rugged wild West of Connemara, Bauranaraun, the place where my father in law comes from

I have hundreds more where these came from. May your day be filled with luck, friendship, and St. Patrick’s Day cheer! I’ll be back later with a recipe for Irish brown bread!

Tags: Clare Island, Connemara, Galway, Ireland, St. Patrick's Day, Travel

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