Galway

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The food and wine scene in Ireland has grown in leaps and bounds over the past couple of decades. Once known for a culture of overly-boiled vegetables and meats, Irish restaurants have garnered quite a bit of buzz for their creative fare made with local, seasonal ingredients, and inspired by the many cultural influences that have shaped the country.

Ard Bia

One restaurant in Galway that truly speaks to the city’s bohemian leanings, artistic cooking, and access to farms and fishermen, while maintaining some historical and cultural significance is Ard Bia at Nimmo’s, proud winners of many Bridgestone and other awards and is part of Slow Food Ireland.

Ard Bia

To access Ard Bia, one must pass through the Spanish Arch, an extension of the city walls, built in 1584.

Spanish Arch

Ard Bia is located along the Long Walk, which follows along the River Corrib where it meets the sea. The restaurant is literally feet from the mouth of the rushing river. If you are lucky enough to get a river-facing seat, you will be looking straight down into the water and across at The Claddagh, the village in which the famed ring originates.

River Corrib

Ard Bia is in a stone building with thick walls, narrow windows, its slightly menacing appearance brightened with splashes of red and colorful glass.

Nimmo's

Nimmo's

Inside is quite the reverse from the stone exterior. A café and bakery area exude warmth, while a friendly staff makes you feel right at home. Mismatched wooden tables, dripping candelabras, and beams of natural light make Ard Bia the perfect place for a leisurely lunch and a glass of wine. At night time, candlelit dinners create a cozy escape from the often tumultuous outside weather. This is the most romantic place to dine in a storm! And if you are lucky to catch good weather, an ideal place to watch the famous Galway Bay sunset.

Ard Bia

soda bread

Ard Bia

Ard Bia

On this particular day, we were sort of between lunch and breakfast, and we decided to go with both. My husband had a giant, fresh scone with homemade Ard Bia jam, a strong coffee. . . and a glass of Rosé from Catalunya. Quite the pairing! He said that the Rosé did pair well with the fruity jam on the scone, and who I am to judge. If you like it, it’s good!

scone

I opted to start with one of Ard Bia’s freshly made juices, ginger, carrot, and apple. Still feeling tired from the flight and sluggish from a day of Thanksgiving eating, it was nice to get a burst of juicy nutrients. I chased my juice with a glass of Nero d’Avola, a beautiful Sicilian wine that warmed me up nicely on the brisk day.

Nero d'avola

My lunch was simple perfection, a bowl of roasted red pepper and tomato soup served with hearty brown bread and butter. For me, one slice for breaking up and tossing into the soup and one slice for eating slathered with Irish butter. Vegetable soups are featured on nearly every menu in Ireland, and they usually tend to be delicious and to hit the spot. Ireland’s weather, while it tends not to get as cold as the Northeast, is raw and makes it impossible to warm up. Hot soup, tea, whiskey, and wine all help.

soup

Ard Bia translates to fine food in English, and while we didn’t experience some of their more creative dishes on this visit, we have eaten dinner here in the past. Local dishes, especially anything seafood based, are sure to please, and draw in tourists and locals alike.

Tags: Food, Galway, Ireland, Lunch, Restaurants, scones, wine

I’ve written before about how much I love visiting Europe in the winter time. It is purely magical; slightly chillier and mostly off-season, it feels more special than during touristy times. And then there are the Christmas markets. We have been to the Christmas market in Vienna, but being this is only Galway’s second year doing such a market, this is our first time visiting one here in Ireland.

Christmas markets are very popular in Germany and Austria, and there is certainly reason for this. They bring the most festive foods, drinks, and wares into one central, outdoor location. When you’re bundled up drinking a hot mulled wine while browsing the different stalls, the cold suddenly doesn’t matter. This past Friday afternoon after lunch and a walk, we made our way to the Galway Christmas market. Located in the center of town, Eyre Square, the market completely delighted us, and we will be returning again and again on our visit to Ireland.

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The weather in Galway has certainly not been very nice over the past few days, but we got lucky on the afternoon the market opened with a respite from the rain and winds. First things first. I had to get a hot buttered rum from the Winter Warmer truck, just because I could. I don’t get what the big deal is with public drinking in America. We probably have a lot more dangerous activities that are legal. A hot cup of mulled wine or rum while listening to Christmas music and browsing stalls is harmless, and a great way to warm up!

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The rum was so delicious, buttery and sweet and definitely hit the spot.

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Of course, if you don’t like rum, you can have a hot port, a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau, or another wintry beverage.

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The Christmas market features all sorts of food, like freshly made sweet or savory crepes.

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It also offers plants of all types, with lots of seasonal flowers and greenery for holiday decorating.

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A beer garden makes up a large part of the market and provides the perfect place to rest after an afternoon of shopping.

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The markets serve as a great way to stimulate the local economy. Many, if not most, of the vendors featured some sort of local ingredient or craftsperson.

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Seaweed is available in huge abundance in Ireland, and it is a popular beauty treatment both over-the-counter and in spas. The carrageenan is also sold to America to thicken sauces and dressings.

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In addition to the market stalls, food, and drink, the Christmas market also features a few fun carnival rides for kids of all ages, making it a fun place for a day out for the family.

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The Christmas markets in Europe embody the warmth and spirit of the season. They provide festive and often inexpensive treats and make the month of December something really special, giving people that boost to get outside, mix and mingle, and enjoy life, one of my favorite parts about visiting Europe.

Have you ever been to a Christmas market?

Tags: Christmas, Europe, Galway, holidays, Ireland, markets, Travel

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! We’ve got a gorgeous day on tap, and I am starting my birthday weekend. . . now. I am off to the JFK Presidential Library for a walk through and then for a walk along the waterfront in the sunshine. This day is a long time coming!

We still don’t have specific plans tonight, but I am sure there will be some sort of celebrating. To mark the occasion, give you all a laugh, and show you over a decade of trips to Ireland, I thought I would share a few photos. I kind of got scanner happy. . . so you may be seeing many more old photos in the future!

Here goes!

Galway

Summer 1999 in Galway with a former member of the Sawdoctors- I know you don’t see much of Ireland in this photo, but look at how ridiculous both my hair and skirt are!

Galway

March 2001, my apartment in Galway – I can’t believe I studied abroad 10 years ago! This was, I believe, the night before my 21st birthday. . . Winking smile

Aran Islands

April 2001 Inis Mor, the Aran Islands

Galway

Sometime in 2001 – The above is my apartment building. My bedroom was at the very top all the way to the left, and I loved it. Below is the view out of my bedroom window of the weekly farmers market.

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Galway Bay sunset

Galway Bay sunsets

Galway Bay sunset

Clare Island

Clare Island, County Mayo

Clare Island

Clew Bay from Clare Island

Clare Island

Sheep grazing on Clare Island

Connemara

The rugged wild West of Connemara, Bauranaraun, the place where my father in law comes from

I have hundreds more where these came from. May your day be filled with luck, friendship, and St. Patrick’s Day cheer! I’ll be back later with a recipe for Irish brown bread!

Tags: Clare Island, Connemara, Galway, Ireland, St. Patrick's Day, Travel

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