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And the travel eating posts continue! I  have so many photos of Ireland and Stowe that it may take me awhile to get through the posts, with recipes and wine posts sprinkled in. Oh and have I mentioned my defective hard drive? My laptop is still with the Geek Squad waiting for a new hard drive and recovery disk. Grrrrr. I am sharing my husband’s laptop with him and using my (literally) taped-together old laptop to get by. As a result I am way behind on getting posts done. And since I couldn’t back up, some posts and pics are trapped on my sad laptop.

Usually when we go to Galway to visit family, we plan a trip somewhere else. We’ve gone to Prague, Italy, Brussels, and other parts of Ireland. This time around we hoped to visit the Champagne region of France, but poor planning and pricey flights kept us in Ireland.

To get away, we decided to head to Ireland’s gourmet capital, Kinsale.  We booked a room at the beautiful, fairly new Carlton Spa Hotel, and we were on our way.

Carlton Kinsale

The hotel, located set back in the countryside, with views of Oyster Bay, was gorgeous, clean, and well-appointed.

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Massive lobby windows revealed a typically beautiful Irish landscape and really helped to get us into relaxation mode.

Carlton Kinsale

We arrived a little weary from the drive from Galway, so I stretched out in a hot bath before getting ready to hit the town of Kinsale. It was so chilly and rainy, but we forged ahead.

Kinsale

And found warmth in Vista Wine Bar. Two glasses of Tempranillo and lots of newspaper reading later, I was in vacation mode.

Tempranillo

Vista’s beautiful views, coupled with the cozy atmosphere provided the perfect place to relax, and their by-the-glass wine selection was sweet. Reading the paper in a wine bar is one of my vacation favorites.

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Kinsale’s Good Food Circle is known for its gourmet restaurant members, and I spent some time browsing the selection before deciding on Jim Edwards. Inside and out, Jim Edwards looks pretty much like just a pub. At first, I was a little disappointed by this as we have visited many pubs, but the food and service changed my mind.

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We went a little crazy, ordering a ton of starters to share as our meal. How about some mussels stuffed with buttery garlic bread crumbs? Irish seafood is perfection, and the crunch that these crumbs added made sweet and tasty mussels even better.

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You kind of have to eat oysters in Ireland, and we went for them grilled with beurre blanc. Salty briny oysters with a creamy butter? Heaven!

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We also dug into local crab cakes with a chili sauce. The Irish are big on sweet chili sauces, and I approve.

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And finally, we went for the fried goat cheese salad because, can you really go wrong with fried goat cheese? (Strangely enough, almost every type I go to type “fried” I end up typing “friend”. Fried is my friend.)

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We enjoyed our meal with glasses of Sauvignon Blanc. By the time we made it through all of these dishes, we were too stuffed, even for banoffee pie. Of course, an hour later I wanted some!

Our hotel featured a great leisure center with a hot tub, sauna, steam room, and pool, so instead of going out for drinks after dinner, we went swimming and enjoyed the facilities. Don’t worry, we waited 30 minutes before swimming. Winking smile

Kinsale was a fun experience, but to be honest, I would not rush back. The reason? I love going North in Ireland. To me it is far more beautiful and rustic and makes me happy. Still, a visit to Kinsale together (we had both been alone) was a nice treat!

Tags: Food, Ireland, Kinsale, Travel, wine

Michael’s on the Hill in Stowe, Vermont was one of my last restaurant meals of 2011, and it ended up being my absolute favorite. I certainly did lots of good eating in 2011. From Sonoma to Boston’s growing culinary landscape, from Washington D.C. to Ireland, there was definitely great food, but it took a somewhat thrown-together trip to Vermont for me to find the pinnacle of my dining bliss for the year.

Michael's on the Hill

Michael’s is, as you would imagine, on a small hill. A white house that is much bigger on the inside than it looks, the restaurant is decorated in white lights providing an elegant and festive feel. We arrived early for our reservation; after a day of hiking, walking, and touring Stowe, we were chilly and ready to relax! Once inside, we took seats at the small bar for pre-dinner drinks. I went with the cozy Woodford Reserve Manhattan, a deep ruby drink, thanks to the Port in it. It was strong but delicious and warmed me from my toes.

Michael's on the Hill

When it was time to head to our table, we had quite a bit of trouble deciding on what to order. We wanted multiple items in each course and decided to go with the Gold tasting menu with wine pairings for our appetizer and entrée courses. Wine pairings chosen by a chef excite me to no end; I love that element of surprise!

tasting menu

While we waited for our first course, we received a warm baguette, Cabot butter, sea salt, and olives to nibble on. The bread was crusty and hearty; spread with butter and sprinkled with salt, I could have eaten it as a meal in itself.

bread

Our delightful server Heather also brought us the amuse bouche for the evening, smoked salmon with a pickled cabbage topping. This two-bite treat was exquisite, with the soft, slightly salty mousse perfectly enhanced by the crunchy, tangy cabbage. Again, I could have made a meal of these.

salmon mousse

The amuse bouche really set the tone for the rest of the meal. Soon after, we received our first course. We both ordered the White Vegetable Bisque with Caramelized Pork Belly & Truffled Parsley Oil, paired with a Provenance Sauvignon Blanc. Heaven in a bowl, I tell you. Sweet chunks of pork belly were surrounded by velvety, creamy soup and accented with a punch of truffle, the aroma reaching our table before the soup did. The Sauvignon Blanc had a nice acidity and tropical fruit flavors along with a little bit of minerality, and it was a great pairing for the soup. We lovingly ate each and every drop. At this point, we were completely smitten with Michael’s.

vegetable soup

For my main course, I had a really tough time deciding between the arctic char and the gnocchi, but in the end I ordered the Winter Vegetable & Potato Gnocchi Gratin with Preserved Lemon, Rosemary & Herb Salad. This dish was so incredibly well balanced. The lemon and herb salad really added a freshness to the rich gnocchi and rustic seasonal veggies. My husband had the Skillet Chicken with Red Wine Blue Cheese Risotto & Broccoli Rabe which was simply sinful. The risotto was so flavorful, and the chicken was perfectly cooked, crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.

My glass of Tempranillo was another excellent pairing.

gnocchi

We almost couldn’t make it to dessert, but since it was included in the tasting, we went for it. We each had a cup of local Green Mountain Coffee to help wake us up a little after such a long day and big meal.

And then we got into dessert. . .

For him: Dark El Rey Hot Chocolate with Warm Chocolate Beignets (with house made marshmallows and candied orange zest)

beignets

For me: Gingerbread Pudding with Spiced Cream Cheese Ice Cream

gingerbread pudding

Sigh. We could only eat about half of each we were so full, but I loved both desserts. I have to say, since it was such a seasonal choice, I think the gingerbread won for me. Plus, how can you go wrong with cream cheese ice cream and caramel?

We both proclaimed this one of the best meals and dining experiences we have ever had and decided our next trip to Stowe can’t come fast enough.

Michael’s on the Hill was cozy and special without being at all pretentious. The staff had a level of professionalism you would see at a high-end restaurant in a big city but also exuded warmth and a genuine desire to make our experience unforgettable.

What was your Meal of the Year for 2011?

Tags: Food, Michael's on the Hill, Restaurants, Travel, Vermont, wine, wine pairings

The food and wine scene in Ireland has grown in leaps and bounds over the past couple of decades. Once known for a culture of overly-boiled vegetables and meats, Irish restaurants have garnered quite a bit of buzz for their creative fare made with local, seasonal ingredients, and inspired by the many cultural influences that have shaped the country.

Ard Bia

One restaurant in Galway that truly speaks to the city’s bohemian leanings, artistic cooking, and access to farms and fishermen, while maintaining some historical and cultural significance is Ard Bia at Nimmo’s, proud winners of many Bridgestone and other awards and is part of Slow Food Ireland.

Ard Bia

To access Ard Bia, one must pass through the Spanish Arch, an extension of the city walls, built in 1584.

Spanish Arch

Ard Bia is located along the Long Walk, which follows along the River Corrib where it meets the sea. The restaurant is literally feet from the mouth of the rushing river. If you are lucky enough to get a river-facing seat, you will be looking straight down into the water and across at The Claddagh, the village in which the famed ring originates.

River Corrib

Ard Bia is in a stone building with thick walls, narrow windows, its slightly menacing appearance brightened with splashes of red and colorful glass.

Nimmo's

Nimmo's

Inside is quite the reverse from the stone exterior. A café and bakery area exude warmth, while a friendly staff makes you feel right at home. Mismatched wooden tables, dripping candelabras, and beams of natural light make Ard Bia the perfect place for a leisurely lunch and a glass of wine. At night time, candlelit dinners create a cozy escape from the often tumultuous outside weather. This is the most romantic place to dine in a storm! And if you are lucky to catch good weather, an ideal place to watch the famous Galway Bay sunset.

Ard Bia

soda bread

Ard Bia

Ard Bia

On this particular day, we were sort of between lunch and breakfast, and we decided to go with both. My husband had a giant, fresh scone with homemade Ard Bia jam, a strong coffee. . . and a glass of Rosé from Catalunya. Quite the pairing! He said that the Rosé did pair well with the fruity jam on the scone, and who I am to judge. If you like it, it’s good!

scone

I opted to start with one of Ard Bia’s freshly made juices, ginger, carrot, and apple. Still feeling tired from the flight and sluggish from a day of Thanksgiving eating, it was nice to get a burst of juicy nutrients. I chased my juice with a glass of Nero d’Avola, a beautiful Sicilian wine that warmed me up nicely on the brisk day.

Nero d'avola

My lunch was simple perfection, a bowl of roasted red pepper and tomato soup served with hearty brown bread and butter. For me, one slice for breaking up and tossing into the soup and one slice for eating slathered with Irish butter. Vegetable soups are featured on nearly every menu in Ireland, and they usually tend to be delicious and to hit the spot. Ireland’s weather, while it tends not to get as cold as the Northeast, is raw and makes it impossible to warm up. Hot soup, tea, whiskey, and wine all help.

soup

Ard Bia translates to fine food in English, and while we didn’t experience some of their more creative dishes on this visit, we have eaten dinner here in the past. Local dishes, especially anything seafood based, are sure to please, and draw in tourists and locals alike.

Tags: Food, Galway, Ireland, Lunch, Restaurants, scones, wine

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