Several weeks ago I was invited to a media lunch at L’Espalier to taste the Champagne of Champagne Bruno Paillard with Alice Paillard, daughter of the founder, winemaker, and visionary behind Maison Bruno Paillard. If you’ve read my blog for any length of time, you know that I love Champagne and that a visit to the region is at the top of my list. Attending this Champagne lunch was quite the treat, and one afternoon I won’t soon forget.
It started out with some relaxing chatting in the Salon at L’Espalier which is my new favorite spot for business meetings. It’s simply lovely and perfectly put together; the carefully chosen decor at L’Espalier was a common theme in our conversation throughout lunch.
When it was time for our lunch, we were seated by a window looking up Boylston Street, an iconic Boston view from an iconic Boston restaurant. Perfection.
Alice Paillard has been working with her father at Champagne Bruno Paillard since 2007. In her time she has worked in the vineyards and cellar, developed the exporting side of the business, and now co-manages the Maison with her father. Her knowledge and passion for the Champagne was so exciting to see firsthand, and to top it off, she was absolutely lovely.
Our discussion of the color scheme and art at L’Espalier turned into one of Champagne as our first taste, Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvee, the flagship wine of the house, was poured. Alice explained that, much like a beautiful room, Champagne is the result of a series of decisions, starting with the villages and vineyards, deciding how long the Champagne should remain on the lees, how long to cellar, all of the things that give it its final character and personality. Champagne Bruno Paillard is among the newer houses, and as a result, they don’t always have to do things the way “things are always done”.
Quality is key, dosage is kept very low to create a brut Champagne, and the disgorgement date is on every bottle. Disgorgement disturbs the wine, and the inclusion of the date on the bottle allows the recipient to know how long it has had to rest and recover since disgorgement. Alice likened it to the human body recovering after surgery; in every instance, the wine is alive and reacts to all that happens to it. The attention to detail, right down to chilling this bottle on only a few ice cubes, reawakened my love and respect for all that goes into wine.
Deciding on which menu items from L’Espalier’s enticing and elegant lunch menu to pair with the Champagne was a fun discussion as again it became important to weigh decisions on what would go together best. Our small group was open to sharing plates (always the best way to eat, in my opinion), and so our courses were ordered and Champagne was poured and enjoyed, both with the food and on its own.
{House smoked salmon with pickled vegetables, crème fraîche and American caviar*}
{L’Espalier’s “signature” Maine lobster bisque with garlic flan}
{Champagne Blanc de Blancs Réserve Privée}
{Nova Scotia halibut with Maitre Gaspard, Delta asparagus, potatoes and fermented mustard seed}
{Wild mushroom risotto with Maine lobster, a New England farm coddled egg and brown butter emulsion}
{Champagne Assemblage 2008}
{Roasted prime beef sirloin: “another soupe a l’oignon”, fingerling potatoes, king trumpet mushrooms and anchovy purée}
{Champagne N.P.U. – “”Nec Plus Ultra”” 2003 “}
{Pairing Champagne with a slightly salty, umami beef dish , one of the more surprising pairings of the day, but one that actually worked deliciously. And look at the color in that glass!}}
{L’Espalier’s famous cheese plate paired with Champagne Rosé Première Cuvée}
Alice showed us where Champagne Bruno Paillard grapes come from; carefully chosen vineyards and grapes cultivated by the same families for more than 30 years. Again, the choice of location and that location’s terroir being important decisions in the beautiful Champagne that makes its way into your glass, if you are lucky!
Champagne Tasting Notes
We tasted the following wines at the lunch.
Champagne Extra Brut Première Cuvée
Champagne Rosé Première Cuvée
Champagne Blanc de Blancs Réserve Privée Grand Cru
Champagne Assemblage 2008
Champagne N.P.U. – “”Nec Plus Ultra”” 2003 “My own scribbled tasting notes don’t do these beautiful wines the same justice that the notes on the website do. I was enthralled by not only the technical savvy behind the wines, but more importantly the love, pride, and passion that Alice exuded. I encourage you to explore and discover the Champagnes of Bruno Paillard at your own pace. The website is beautiful and so full of information on the house, the Champagne making process, and so much more.
If you are in the Boston area, you can find Champagne from Bruno Paillard at several retail outlets, including the following:
Gordons
Urban Grape
Inman Square Wines
Kappy’s Peabody
Cellar d’Or
Lower Falls Wine
Table & Vine
This lunch was provided to me at no charge as a media guest. All opinions are my own.
